“If you’re going to train, do it in Tokyo.”
Relying on connections to enter the world of fine dining.

I am the second son of a fishmonger from Oishida Town in Yamagata Prefecture. Influenced by my upbringing, by the time I graduated high school, I naturally decided to become a sushi chef. At that time, the popular TV drama ‘Dear Mother’ starring Kenichi Hagiwara, who played a sushi chef, was airing. I had been watching it since middle school and was inspired by the shy main character.

I thought to myself, ‘If I’m going to train, it has to be in Tokyo,’ but it was a time when you couldn’t get into a famous restaurant without an introduction. So, I was introduced by a friend of the same age who worked at Sushi Kappo Akasaka Hosumi in Akasaka. He had started working there immediately after graduating from junior high.

In addition to its glamorous Akasaka location, Sushi Kappo Akasaka Hosumi also had a branch in the National Diet Building’s cafeteria. Initially, my job was to load sushi rice and toppings into the shop’s light truck and deliver them. I was well-liked by a fishmonger from Tsukiji Fish Market, one of the restaurant’s suppliers, and when invited to his home, I met my future wife.

After about six years at Akasaka Hosumi, I moved to Tsukiji Ryotei Kawasho Soen through my father-in-law’s introduction. This kaiseki restaurant specialized in fugu (blowfish) dishes in winter and was a high-class establishment with an average customer spending of 30,000 to 40,000 yen. It was a great learning experience serving VIP customers and using only the finest ingredients.

The training of a sushi chef involves various stages: 1. preparation, 2. appetizers, 3. grilling, 4. frying, 5. sushi making, and 6. simmering. There were about 20 chefs at Tsukiji Ryotei Kawasho Soen, where I learned the basics of being a chef.

Seeing everyone come together and support each other,
just like the large blooms of a hydrangea.

I had always wanted to own my restaurant, but I only started to seriously consider it around the age of 32 after getting married. In 1995, at the age of 34, I became independent and opened Akasaka Ajisai. You might wonder why it’s named ‘Ajisai’ (hydrangea). During my training days, I had bought and cared for an ornamental hydrangea, whose blue and purple hues sparkled beautifully, leaving a lasting impression. I decided then that if I ever opened my own place, it would be named ‘Ajisai.’ Despite being large blooms, hydrangeas do not scatter even when they wither. To me, it symbolizes how everyone’s efforts support and sustain the restaurant. I still have hydrangeas planted in my home garden.

The first Akasaka Ajisai was a small space of 16 tsubo (about 53 square meters), with 20 seats. It was after the bubble economy had burst, so managing the business was tough to the point where I could hardly pay my three part-time workers. Interestingly, that year was quite tumultuous, with the Great Hanshin Earthquake in January and the Tokyo subway sarin attack in March.

However, about a year and a half later, it became very busy. People from Yamagata Prefecture proudly brought their acquaintances, and the number of repeat customers grew. So, I searched for a larger space and moved to our current location. Meeting customers every day was a joy. I feel it’s thanks to the customers that we are where we are today.

We spare no expense in our ingredients to provide memorable dishes.

Akasaka Ajisai, true to its name as a Yamagata-style kappo, offers variations on traditional Yamagata local cuisine. Are you familiar with Yamagata’s famous ‘Imo-ni’ (potato stew)? Its deliciousness comes from the variety of seasonal ingredients it contains, creating a rich umami flavor. Therefore, we use plenty of ingredients generously, finishing the dish with Yamagata soy sauce. We also frequently use Yamagata soy sauce, miso, salt koji, and sake lees in our other dishes.

Another thing I’m particular about is the impact of the food. When you think of nimono (stewed food) in regular kaiseki cuisine, it’s usually served in a small dish, beautifully arranged. I also trained in Kansai kappo, so at first I served it like that. But that’s too broad a category, and it doesn’t have any distinctive features. My customers taught me that it’s better to focus on Yamagata cuisine, and that the presentation and volume should have an impact. They said that if you don’t make an impact, it won’t be memorable.

Extra Large Mackerel Salt Grill
‘Lunch Menu’

Tsuri Kinki Course ‘Dinner Menu’

Akasaka Ajisai also offers osechi dishes. About three years after we opened, a buyer from Isetan came to our shop, and that led to us being able to sell our products at Isetan. That was the start of our osechi dishes. We’ve been doing this for about 25 years now.
At first, we only made 20 sets, but as I started to sell them myself, I was also selling them at all the department stores in Tokyo and post offices nationwide. They are also a gift for those who make a tax return to their hometown in Oishida-machi, Yamagata Prefecture, so I am indebted to my hometown.
There are 40 to 50 types of osechi ryori, and since all the ingredients are measured to fit the dimensions of the multi-tiered boxes, it is a culmination of skills for the chef. We always include ingredients from Yamagata, and now we ship about 5,000 sets a year nationwide.

Daytime customers often lead to nighttime patronage.
Gratitude to customers is more important than profit.

Our evening menu features various fishes such as local mountain vegetables, Yamagata beef, rock oysters nurtured by the subterranean waters of Mount Chokai, blackthroat seaperch, and cold-season cod.
We also have a wide range of fish lunch sets, which our customers really enjoy. To give you an idea of what we have on offer, we use salt from the Shonai coast in Yamagata Prefecture to grill mackerel. We have two types of salmon: one grilled with salted malt and the other teriyaki-style. We grill them over charcoal rather than in the oven, as this way the umami flavor doesn’t escape. The soy sauce we use is from Yamagata Prefecture. It has a deep, rich flavor.

As mentioned earlier about the impact, our set meals include a fish fillet weighing 170 grams, which is larger than the usual 120 grams. The special large horse mackerel fry is available only on Thursdays and Fridays. Our famous mackerel miso set meal is known for its volume and tender, delicious meat, and has even been featured in newspapers. Larger fish tend to be fattier and more flavorful.

Each set meal comes with rice, miso soup, two small side dishes, and a salad. Of course, the rice and miso are from Yamagata. We keep our prices affordable, so the profit is modest, but customers who come for lunch often return for dinner. Some even make reservations before leaving.

Above all, customer referrals are our greatest honor and joy. I would like to take this opportunity to express my deep gratitude to our customers. With a spirit of ‘once in a lifetime’, we look forward to welcoming you wholeheartedly.

In talking with the energetic Mr. Sugiyama this time, I was made aware that my dreams and ideals for my work, and my decisions, have become more conservative than when I first started out on my own. It’s a bit embarrassing to admit, but I also realized that I haven’t been able to convey my own individuality and sensibilities in the approach from the entrance to the restaurant and the seating area.
One of my favorite words is “Ichigo Ichie” (meaning “treasuring each encounter”). The spirit of cooking is also truly “Ichigo Ichie”. I am given the chance by the customer, and I express it with all my might in my cooking, and I wonder how much of an impact I can leave behind. Mr. Sugiyama reminded me of the passion I had when I first became independent in 1995, when I was always looking up and taking on challenges.
At my age, I am grateful for the encounter with Mr. Sugiyama, who has brought out my fighting spirit. I look forward to working with you in the future!

Head Chef of Yamagata Kappo Akasaka Ajisai Koji Sato

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In this interview, I had the opportunity to speak with Koji Sato from Yamagata Kaiseki Akasaka Ajisai. Through our conversation, I was touched by Sato-san’s deep love and philosophy for cooking. His stories conveyed a strong commitment to using the ingredients and flavors of his hometown, Yamagata, while continually embracing new challenges. Inspired by the TV drama “Zenryaku Ofukuro-sama,” his passion for becoming a chef in his youth still resonates within him.
What struck me most was his philosophy of “cooking with the heart.” Sato-san values using ingredients generously to create impactful dishes, providing unforgettable experiences for his customers. This approach has made his restaurant a beloved place for many people.
With gratitude, I am confident that Akasaka Ajisai will continue to offer heartwarming cuisine to many. This interview allowed me to reaffirm my own passion and empathy for cooking.
Looking ahead, I plan to work with Koji Sato on preparing a globally-oriented restaurant for tourists visiting Japan and developing dishes that introduce Japanese ingredients overseas. I am excited about these new challenges.
I sincerely wish for the continued success of Yamagata Kaiseki Akasaka Ajisai.

DK Sugiyama
Editor-in-Chief of “My Philosophy”

*Access/Store Information
Nepil Road Building B1F, 3-15-4 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo

*Nearest station
5 minutes walk from Akasakamitsuke Station on the Marunouchi Line
6 minutes walk from Tameike Sanno Station on the Ginza Line
2 minutes walk from Akasaka Station on the Chiyoda Line

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At Yamagata Kappo Akasaka Ajisai Edited by: DK Sugiyama | Photographed by:Atsushi Arakane