Encounter with Surfing

I moved to Hawaii when I was 14 years old, fresh out of middle school. My mother’s older sister had moved to Hawaii after getting married, and my mother made the decision to send me to live with my aunt out of concern for my future. In Hawaii, I helped wash dishes at my aunt’s restaurant every morning before school as a way to return the favor of being allowed to live there. After school, my friends would pick me up in front of the school and take me straight to the beach. I spent my first year surfing 365 days a year, every day.

At first, I was bored in Hawaii because of the unfamiliar environment. However, when my cousin’s friend took me to the beach, I was immediately attracted to the allure of surfing. The feeling of being at one with nature and the sense of freedom that comes with riding the waves was too wonderful to describe. The most attractive thing about surfing is that there is no admission fee. Because I grew up in a single mother family, I was not wealthy.I had to earn pocket money by delivering milk and newspapers to buy a bicycle when I was in elementary school in Japan. Surfing was a valuable pastime that I could easily enjoy. I bought my first surfboard for about 36,000 yen, which was a big investment for me at that time.

Overcoming the Language Barrier with Movies

When I first came to Hawaii, I could not speak English at all and often felt lonely. I struggled to learn English while attending school. In a time when there was no Internet, I had very little exposure to Japanese, so conversations with friends I made through surfing helped me immensely in overcoming the English barrier.

In addition, movies were also a great way to learn English. By going to the cinema, watching movies, and listening to dialogues and expressions repeatedly, I began to understand and speak English. Movies were not just entertainment, but served as a valuable learning tool. As a result, I developed my listening skills through movies and my speaking skills through conversations with friends.

As I watched more and more movies, I gradually came to love movies more and more, and I even developed a dream of making movies someday. Movies have the power to appeal to people’s hearts, and I came to think that I would like to create that power with my own hands and inspire many people.

Encountering Surfing and Connecting with People

A photo with “Randy Rarick,” who changed my life.
(In front of the “Fluid Power Surf Craft” opening)

“Fluid Power Surf Craft” (1965)

After moving to Hawaii in 1965, and about two years after I started surfing, I went to Sunset Beach on the North Shore, a sacred surfing spot, for the first time by myself. As I was looking out over the ocean and trying to decide where to enter, a Hawaiian asked me, “Is this your first time?” He told me to follow him and guided me to the point as we paddled together, which I later learned that the surfer was Eddie Aikau^*1 , a Hawaiian hero . Furthermore, the year after meeting Eddie Aikau, I was able to actually meet Duke Kahanamoku^*2, another Hawaiian hero and statue in Waikiki. I now have the painting that hung in Duke’s bedroom and have kept it with me.

Later, I met Randy Rarick^*3 in Hawaii. He was 19 years old at the time and already had a surf shop , so meeting him had a huge impact on my surfing career. I had the opportunity to work as a store rider for Randy and got to know many legendary surfers. This experience led me to open my own surf shop , Fluid Power Surf Craft, in Japan. I continued to develop a close, brotherly relationship with Randy, who would later become a major figure in the surfing world, and that bond continues to this day.

^*1 Edward Ryan Aikau (May 4, 1946 – March 17, 1978) was a legendary lifeguard and surfer from Maui, Hawaii. He is also famous for the phrase “Eddie would go” in praise of his way of life.
^*2 Duke Paoa Kahinu Mokoe Hulikohola Kahanamoku (August 24, 1890 – January 22, 1968) was a legendary swimmer and surfer from Hawaii. He won three Olympic gold medals. He contributed significantly in popularizing surfing as a sport.
^*3 Randy Rarick-(born October 31, 1949), resident of Sunset Beach, Oahu, is a travel surfer who has traveled all over the world and surfed in many countries. He is also famous for founding the professional surfing organization (now ASP) and training the members, and is a legend engaged in many different fields.

Fluid Power Surf Craft

Fluid Power Surf Craft is a treasure filled with my passion. The name of the shop is a combination of the words “Fluid” and “Power,” which evokes the movement and waves of surfing, while “Surf Craft” is my desire to promote surfing by hand. The first shop name, “Surf Bum,” was changed on the advice of Randy Rarick. He pointed out that the word “Bum” had a strong image of wanderer and slackers, so I chose a name with more positive connotations.
I made the decision to open a shop in Chigasaki because many of the Japanese surfers and friends I met in Hawaii lived in Chigasaki. Although I had some experience in surfing, I was worried about running the shop , but I took on the challenge with a strong determination not to let it fall apart at any cost. I am glad I made the decision to open it. Through “Fluid Power Surf Craft,” I connected with many people, and these connections are my assets. The relationships I built through surfing and the shop continue to be a great source of support for me.

My wife has supported the “Fluid Power Surf Craft” for 49 years. She is also known as a hula dancer, and as a professional manager, she has supported the shop behind the scenes and provided an environment where I could enjoy surfing freely. Moreover, with her support, I am able to concentrate on running the shop , which has led to the great success.Fluid Power Surf Craft, which will celebrate its 50th anniversary next year in 2025, is the result of what I have built together with my wife.I hope to continue to share the beauty of surfing and the importance of human relationships with as many people as possible.

Passing on to the Next Generation

Fluid Power Surf Craft, used to offer surfing classes for elementary school children. For about 15 years, starting in 2000, these classes were held as part of the local elementary school’s summer curriculum, and were a popular opportunity for children to face nature through surfing and learn the skills to ride waves with confidence.

The class offered a curriculum tailored to the children’s physical fitness and level of ability, with careful instruction provided by experienced instructors. As a result, many children learned to enjoy surfing and acquired skills through these classes.
However, due to recent changes in the education system, the comprehensive classes at elementary schools that initially supported this activity have been abolished, and these surfing classes are unfortunately no longer offered. Furthermore, the summer vacation surfing school for children, which had been held independently, has also been terminated due to various circumstances.

Pro surfer Mr.Izuki Tanaka (2009 JPSA Grand Champion) and Mr. Kaito Ohashi (2015 WSL JAPAN Regional Champion) was one of the first students of this surfing class, and many children have gone on to become world-class pro surfers through their experience here.

Currently, the shop is focusing on surfing experiences for adults. Takuji Makino (JPSA Official Pro Longboard surfer) who has good reputations for teaching kindly and thoroughly coaches the lessons. I myself also teach private “Master of Surf Culture” lessons. This lesson offers a full surfing experience while touching on the history of surf culture, and can be enjoyed by a wide range of people from beginners to advanced surfers.
My mission is to continue to support and spread the development of surf culture.

May 2024, Interviewed at Fluid Power Surf Craft
,Interview and editing by: DK Sugiyama
Project Manager: Chiho Ando
Written by Eri Shibata （Assistant Editor-in-Chief, “My Philosophy”）
Translation: Alex Queen
Photography: Jotaro Sugiyama